Author: asuka

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Finding Reliable Suppliers: A Strategic Approach

Finding Reliable Suppliers: A Strategic Approach

  In today’s competitive market, identifying trustworthy suppliers is crucial for business success. While trade shows and exhibitions offer numerous opportunities, the sheer volume of potential partners can be overwhelming. This guide outlines our company’s approach to finding and confirming reliable suppliers, ensuring we partner with those who deliver quality products, meet deadlines, and offer competitive pricing.

Key Areas of Focus:

1. Evaluating Supplier Credibility

2. Ensuring Product Quality

3. Effective Communication Strategies

4. Negotiating Prices and Terms

5. Fostering Long-Term Partnerships

1. Evaluating Supplier Credibility

Our company employs a thorough vetting process to assess supplier credibility:

– Preliminary Research: We conduct extensive online research, examining the supplier’s website, social media presence, and customer reviews.

– Verification of Credentials: We request and verify all relevant certifications and business licenses.

– Experience Assessment: We consider the supplier’s industry experience and track record.

– Reference Checks: We contact previous clients to gauge their satisfaction levels.

– Intuition: We trust our instincts. If something feels off, we’re not afraid to walk away.

 

2. Ensuring Product Quality

To guarantee top-notch products, we:

– Conduct Thorough Sample Inspections: We meticulously examine samples for defects and inconsistencies.

– Inquire About Quality Control: We discuss the supplier’s quality assurance processes in detail.

– Request Product Certifications: We ask for documentation proving adherence to quality and safety standards.

– Consider Factory Visits: When possible, we tour the supplier’s facilities to observe operations firsthand.

– Start with Small Orders: We often begin with trial 

 

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How to choose the right sleeping bag

A sleeping bag is probably the most important piece of camping comfort equipment. However, there are many models of sleeping bags, including mummy type, envelope type, quilt type, artificial cotton, down, bottomed and bottomless. Which one is right for you?

 

Why do you need a sleeping bag?

 

I have friends who bring bulky home quilts to camping parties. In the summer, nighttime temperatures don’t usually drop below 10 degrees Celsius, so this isn’t a problem, even if you’re running into the mountains, but even so, the bulk of the carry-on bag is a pain in the ass. A well-fitted sleeping bag will provide the same warmth and comfort while being able to be packed into a smaller, more portable size and be lighter in weight.

 

The need for thermal insulation is much greater outdoors than at home. Not only does your bed take you off the cold ground, but you won’t be exposed to wind, rain, and frigid temperatures. The function of a sleeping bag is to solve the above problems and effectively ensure you a warm and portable cocoon.

 

Not everyone needs a minus-35-degree sleeping bag designed for trekking through the Himalayas, but a basic, affordable summer sleeping bag is better than carrying a blanket when camping.

 

What type of sleeping bag is right for you?

 

You may be familiar with envelope and mummy sleeping bags, but there are many other types.

 

Envelope type: Sacrifice warmth, weight and packing volume to optimize space. A good option for summer drive camping, but nothing more. You don’t want to carry an envelope sleeping bag for long distances. They are usually not very expensive.

 

Mummy-shaped sleeping bag: Shaped close to the curves of your body, the mummy-shaped sleeping bag maximizes thermal insulation while minimizing size and weight. It also has a hood to conserve heat from the shoulders, neck and head.

 

Semi-Envelope: Not comfortable enough in a traditional mummy-style sleeping bag with limited space? There’s a fusion of envelope and mummy sleeping bags, offering the space of the former and the insulation of the latter. In most cases, they are slightly larger in weight and packing volume than mummy models. Each manufacturer has their own style: scoop, spiral, pyramid or other forms, but the commonality is that they all use a semi-envelope design and sacrifice weight to increase comfort for the mummy shape.

 

Bed type: A new sleeping bag designed by Sierra Design that emphasizes the comfort of adapting to different sleeping positions (side, lying, stomach) without sacrificing insulation, but sacrifices are made for weight and packing volume.

 

Quilt type: By abandoning the insulation part at the bottom, their packing volume and weight are greatly reduced. You’ll need to use an insulating moisture-proof pad with them, just like you would with any other sleeping bag. Some quilt types include foot wraps and hoods, but the original design was a flat square quilt. They’re more flexible than they sound, and on warm nights you can simply stretch your legs and feet out of the quilt and pull the quilt down to adjust to the temperature. However, it takes some practice to retain maximum heat with a quilt and sleep comfortably in it. A great option for ultra-lightweight summer backpacking, and a great way to add insulation to another sleeping bag in the winter.

 

Integrated cushion type: the gold standard. Similar to the concept of quilts, the design of better comfort, heat preservation, stability and security is achieved by integrating the sleeping bag and moisture-proof pad (usually modular) into one. This design minimizes weight and packing volume. However, you’ll need to buy both a sleeping bag and a moisture-proof pad to match, and usually only well-known brands make these, so they may be out of some people’s budget.

 

 

 

 

The meaning of temperature scale

 

It’s useless. In fact, a lack of transparency and honesty about product performance is a widespread problem in the outdoor industry. This is especially true when it comes to sleeping bag temperature scales. I once felt warmer in a sleeping bag with a temperature scale of 0 degrees than -15 degrees. Despite the use of European testing standards, there is no valid, objective, universal testing procedure that allows you to test and compare the performance of different sleeping bags from different manufacturers, and it is difficult to even get just how warm a sleeping bag is.

 

And the different sleep patterns we all have exacerbate the problem. I’ve been sweating hot in the same sleeping bag on the same night and my girlfriend thought she was going to freeze to death. Not only are men and women accustomed to sleeping at different temperatures, but different people of the same gender experience sleep temperature differently. The only way to know how insulating a sleeping bag is is to experience it yourself. And it’s a bit of a Catch-22.

 

Most sleeping bags come with two stats: comfort and ultimate. Comfort temperature is important data. Adding 5-10 degrees to this is probably the lowest temperature you will find comfortable.

 

This only applies to conscientious manufacturers. When camping with him, I spent the night sleeping in his own brand of rayon sleeping bag with a temperature rating of -18 degrees. The temperature dropped to -9 degrees at night, and even though I was fully clothed, I was too cold to sleep. Buy a sleeping bag from a great outdoor brand you know and trust, and still add 5-10 degrees to the comfort scale.

 

Down or artificial cotton?

Are you allergic to down? No? Then buy a down sleeping bag. The decision is that simple. Down has better thermal insulation properties for the same volume and is also more durable. It is crucial for any sleeping bag to dry it completely after each trip and store it loosely. However, synthetic cotton sleeping bags only have a lifespan of a few years and lose their insulation as their fibers become damaged. ability. A good quality down sleeping bag can last for decades. This also makes them expensive and good value for money.

 

The only advantage of rayon sleeping bags is that they retain warmth even when they get wet. You’re bound to do everything you can to keep your sleeping bag dry, and this can be easily done with a simple waterproof bag. At the same time, water-repellent coatings like Downtek also reduce the possibility of this problem, so that down still has the ability to maintain fluffiness (that is, the ability to retain heat) when soaked. Look for this technology in the sleeping bag you want to buy.

sleeping bag structure

Your down sleeping bag is constructed with partitions that keep the down in place. The shape of the partitions has a huge impact on the insulation and weight of the sleeping bag.

The best sleeping bags have box-type partitions, and they have a greater height at the seams between the different partitions to trap warm air. This is a simple, lightweight yet effective sleeping bag design.

Inexpensive sleeping bags have quilt-style partitions (Bavarian partitions) where the skin is simply sewn into different partitions. Obviously this is worse in terms of thermal insulation. Some manufacturers use double-height deformed partitions to create a structure called double-layer partitions. More material also means more weight.

 

Multiple layers for warmth

There are two ways to increase insulation in a sleeping bag, both of which require adding additional layers of insulation. First, we want to point out that the myth that sleeping in thermal clothing in a sleeping bag will make you colder is patently false. This is an absolutely obvious fallacy. As long as you make sure the clothing you wear is dry, the more you wear in a sleeping bag, the warmer you will be. In cold temperatures, the only thing I need to sleep on is a pair of wool socks on my feet, a base layer of merino wool and a wool hat. If I get cold at night, I add a down jacket and other necessary insulating mid-layers. More insulation means more warmth.

 

However, wearing all your clothes to bed is a last resort. An effective way to sleep warm without going overboard is to combine two sleeping bags. This is especially good if you have a lightweight summer sleeping bag paired with a midweight three-season sleeping bag. It doesn’t take much thinking, just figure out which two sleeping bags will fit best and pair them up.

 

Wondering how warm a sleeping bag is combined? I found the formula on this forum to be quite accurate

 

x -(70 – y)/2 = z

 

x = sleeping bag with better thermal insulation performance and lower temperature scale

y = A sleeping bag with slightly poor thermal insulation performance and a higher temperature scale

z = sleeping bag combination

 

This formula is in degrees Fahrenheit (temperatures elsewhere in the article are in degrees Celsius), and is more accurate using your knowledge of the sleeping bag’s true operating temperature than if you only know the nominal temperature scale.

 

And don’t forget, you need a heat-insulating and moisture-proof mat.

Features you need

There are a lot of “features” that can be added or subtracted to make it more comfortable, more convenient, lightweight or cheaper.

 

Zippers: They range from full size to 1/4. The longer the zipper, the easier it is to get in and out of the sleeping bag, and you need the zipper in the corresponding direction to be full size to connect two sleeping bags into a double sleeping bag. Usually the size of the zipper is marked #X, the larger the number, the wider the tooth width of the zipper. If you want your zippers to be durable and easy to repair, choose a zipper from a big brand like YKK.

 

Foot space: A common complaint about mummy-style or similar sleeping bags is that there is too little foot space. This part can be made wider than its upper part through a trapezoidal or three-dimensional foot design.

 

Partitions: Look for thick, down-filled partitions that are the same length as the zipper to block air from getting through. It would be even better if the outer layer of the partition had a thicker fabric to prevent it from being torn due to being caught by the zipper.

 

Face Barrier: This helps seal the space around your face so warm air can still be trapped in the sleeping bag on cold nights. They confirm that it is effective, but whether it is comfortable or not depends on the different products.

 

Pillow Case: Do you want to use a pillow? He helps you stay in place. Pillowcases keep your pillow in the sleeping bag, but usually require the pillow and sleeping bag to be from the same manufacturer.

 

Pad Covers and Webbing: Designed to securely link pads to sleeping bags, from simple grommets that can be threaded through ropes to integrated, full-length pad covers that can accommodate pads of specific widths, lengths, and shapes. When choosing, consider what kind of moisture-proof pad you will use and how it will attach to the sleeping bag.

 

Women’s sleeping bags: Not only are women more sensitive to the cold than men, but they also sleep in different positions in some cases. Women’s sleeping bags are shorter in length, narrower at the shoulders and wider at the hips. They will also have more insulation.

 

Sleeping bag length: You’ll want a sleeping bag that’s as close to your height as possible to minimize weight and maximize insulation while still allowing you to lie comfortably in it.

 

Electronics bag: great idea! You can place your cell phone, camera or other items inside the sleeping bag to sleep with you to keep the battery charged during the cold nights.

 

Hood Cord: You will want the hood of your mummy sleeping bag to be as closed as possible. On very cold nights, you might just put your nose out to breathe.

 

Zipper pullers: A zipper that can be opened from the inside as well as from the outside is a good idea.

 

Water-Repellent: A long-lasting water-repellent coating helps prevent rain and condensation from penetrating your sleeping bag. You will need this performance.

 

Leg and foot openings: These are stupid and unnecessary, avoid them.

 

Sleeping bag tips

 

Before you get in, fill a water bottle with hot water and throw it into your sleeping bag. This will keep you warm and cozy when you get in.

 

A sleeping bag does not generate heat, it only retains your body heat. Warm up on a cold night to get your blood circulating before diving in.

 

Temporarily repair tears or holes with tape to control damage before they grow. After returning home, they can be completely repaired by patching or stitching.

 

Keep your sleeping bag away from sources of fire; sparks can easily create holes and the heat can melt them.

By in

How to choose the right sleeping bag

A sleeping bag is probably the most important piece of camping comfort equipment. However, there are many models of sleeping bags, including mummy type, envelope type, quilt type, artificial cotton, down, bottomed and bottomless. Which one is right for you?

 

Why do you need a sleeping bag?

 

I have friends who bring bulky home quilts to camping parties. In the summer, nighttime temperatures don’t usually drop below 10 degrees Celsius, so this isn’t a problem, even if you’re running into the mountains, but even so, the bulk of the carry-on bag is a pain in the ass. A well-fitted sleeping bag will provide the same warmth and comfort while being able to be packed into a smaller, more portable size and be lighter in weight.

 

The need for thermal insulation is much greater outdoors than at home. Not only does your bed take you off the cold ground, but you won’t be exposed to wind, rain, and frigid temperatures. The function of a sleeping bag is to solve the above problems and effectively ensure you a warm and portable cocoon.

 

Not everyone needs a minus-35-degree sleeping bag designed for trekking through the Himalayas, but a basic, affordable summer sleeping bag is better than carrying a blanket when camping.

What type of sleeping bag is right for you?

 

You may be familiar with envelope and mummy sleeping bags, but there are many other types.

 

Envelope type: Sacrifice warmth, weight and packing volume to optimize space. A good option for summer drive camping, but nothing more. You don’t want to carry an envelope sleeping bag for long distances. They are usually not very expensive.

Mummy-shaped sleeping bag: Shaped close to the curves of your body, the mummy-shaped sleeping bag maximizes thermal insulation while minimizing size and weight. It also has a hood to conserve heat from the shoulders, neck and head.

Semi-Envelope: Not comfortable enough in a traditional mummy-style sleeping bag with limited space? There’s a fusion of envelope and mummy sleeping bags, offering the space of the former and the insulation of the latter. In most cases, they are slightly larger in weight and packing volume than mummy models. Each manufacturer has their own style: scoop, spiral, pyramid or other forms, but the commonality is that they all use a semi-envelope design and sacrifice weight to increase comfort for the mummy shape.

Bed type: A new sleeping bag designed by Sierra Design that emphasizes the comfort of adapting to different sleeping positions (side, lying, stomach) without sacrificing insulation, but sacrifices are made for weight and packing volume.

 

Quilt type: By abandoning the insulation part at the bottom, their packing volume and weight are greatly reduced. You’ll need to use an insulating moisture-proof pad with them, just like you would with any other sleeping bag. Some quilt types include foot wraps and hoods, but the original design was a flat square quilt. They’re more flexible than they sound, and on warm nights you can simply stretch your legs and feet out of the quilt and pull the quilt down to adjust to the temperature. However, it takes some practice to retain maximum heat with a quilt and sleep comfortably in it. A great option for ultra-lightweight summer backpacking, and a great way to add insulation to another sleeping bag in the winter.

 

Integrated cushion type: the gold standard. Similar to the concept of quilts, the design of better comfort, heat preservation, stability and security is achieved by integrating the sleeping bag and moisture-proof pad (usually modular) into one. This design minimizes weight and packing volume. However, you’ll need to buy both a sleeping bag and a moisture-proof pad to match, and usually only well-known brands make these, so they may be out of some people’s budget.

 

The meaning of temperature scale

 

It’s useless. In fact, a lack of transparency and honesty about product performance is a widespread problem in the outdoor industry. This is especially true when it comes to sleeping bag temperature scales. I once felt warmer in a sleeping bag with a temperature scale of 0 degrees than -15 degrees. Despite the use of European testing standards, there is no valid, objective, universal testing procedure that allows you to test and compare the performance of different sleeping bags from different manufacturers, and it is difficult to even get just how warm a sleeping bag is.

 

And the different sleep patterns we all have exacerbate the problem. I’ve been sweating hot in the same sleeping bag on the same night and my girlfriend thought she was going to freeze to death. Not only are men and women accustomed to sleeping at different temperatures, but different people of the same gender experience sleep temperature differently. The only way to know how insulating a sleeping bag is is to experience it yourself. And it’s a bit of a Catch-22.

 

Most sleeping bags come with two stats: comfort and ultimate. Comfort temperature is important data. Adding 5-10 degrees to this is probably the lowest temperature you will find comfortable.

 

This only applies to conscientious manufacturers. When camping with him, I spent the night sleeping in his own brand of rayon sleeping bag with a temperature rating of -18 degrees. The temperature dropped to -9 degrees at night, and even though I was fully clothed, I was too cold to sleep. Buy a sleeping bag from a great outdoor brand you know and trust, and still add 5-10 degrees to the comfort scale.

 

Down or artificial cotton?

Are you allergic to down? No? Then buy a down sleeping bag. The decision is that simple. Down has better thermal insulation properties for the same volume and is also more durable. It is crucial for any sleeping bag to dry it completely after each trip and store it loosely. However, synthetic cotton sleeping bags only have a lifespan of a few years and lose their insulation as their fibers become damaged. ability. A good quality down sleeping bag can last for decades. This also makes them expensive and good value for money.

 

The only advantage of rayon sleeping bags is that they retain warmth even when they get wet. You’re bound to do everything you can to keep your sleeping bag dry, and this can be easily done with a simple waterproof bag. At the same time, water-repellent coatings like Downtek also reduce the possibility of this problem, so that down still has the ability to maintain fluffiness (that is, the ability to retain heat) when soaked. Look for this technology in the sleeping bag you want to buy.

 

sleeping bag structure

Your down sleeping bag is constructed with partitions that keep the down in place. The shape of the partitions has a huge impact on the insulation and weight of the sleeping bag.

The best sleeping bags have box-type partitions, and they have a greater height at the seams between the different partitions to trap warm air. This is a simple, lightweight yet effective sleeping bag design.

Inexpensive sleeping bags have quilt-style partitions (Bavarian partitions) where the skin is simply sewn into different partitions. Obviously this is worse in terms of thermal insulation. Some manufacturers use double-height deformed partitions to create a structure called double-layer partitions. More material also means more weight.

 

Multiple layers for warmth

There are two ways to increase insulation in a sleeping bag, both of which require adding additional layers of insulation. First, we want to point out that the myth that sleeping in thermal clothing in a sleeping bag will make you colder is patently false. This is an absolutely obvious fallacy. As long as you make sure the clothing you wear is dry, the more you wear in a sleeping bag, the warmer you will be. In cold temperatures, the only thing I need to sleep on is a pair of wool socks on my feet, a base layer of merino wool and a wool hat. If I get cold at night, I add a down jacket and other necessary insulating mid-layers. More insulation means more warmth.

 

However, wearing all your clothes to bed is a last resort. An effective way to sleep warm without going overboard is to combine two sleeping bags. This is especially good if you have a lightweight summer sleeping bag paired with a midweight three-season sleeping bag. It doesn’t take much thinking, just figure out which two sleeping bags will fit best and pair them up.

 

Wondering how warm a sleeping bag is combined? I found the formula on this forum to be quite accurate

 

x -(70 – y)/2 = z

 

x = sleeping bag with better thermal insulation performance and lower temperature scale

y = A sleeping bag with slightly poor thermal insulation performance and a higher temperature scale

z = sleeping bag combination

 

This formula is in degrees Fahrenheit (temperatures elsewhere in the article are in degrees Celsius), and is more accurate using your knowledge of the sleeping bag’s true operating temperature than if you only know the nominal temperature scale.

 

And don’t forget, you need a heat-insulating and moisture-proof mat.

 

Features you need

There are a lot of “features” that can be added or subtracted to make it more comfortable, more convenient, lightweight or cheaper.

 

Zippers: They range from full size to 1/4. The longer the zipper, the easier it is to get in and out of the sleeping bag, and you need the zipper in the corresponding direction to be full size to connect two sleeping bags into a double sleeping bag. Usually the size of the zipper is marked #X, the larger the number, the wider the tooth width of the zipper. If you want your zippers to be durable and easy to repair, choose a zipper from a big brand like YKK.

 

Foot space: A common complaint about mummy-style or similar sleeping bags is that there is too little foot space. This part can be made wider than its upper part through a trapezoidal or three-dimensional foot design.

 

Partitions: Look for thick, down-filled partitions that are the same length as the zipper to block air from getting through. It would be even better if the outer layer of the partition had a thicker fabric to prevent it from being torn due to being caught by the zipper.

 

Face Barrier: This helps seal the space around your face so warm air can still be trapped in the sleeping bag on cold nights. They confirm that it is effective, but whether it is comfortable or not depends on the different products.

 

Pillow Case: Do you want to use a pillow? He helps you stay in place. Pillowcases keep your pillow in the sleeping bag, but usually require the pillow and sleeping bag to be from the same manufacturer.

 

Pad Covers and Webbing: Designed to securely link pads to sleeping bags, from simple grommets that can be threaded through ropes to integrated, full-length pad covers that can accommodate pads of specific widths, lengths, and shapes. When choosing, consider what kind of moisture-proof pad you will use and how it will attach to the sleeping bag.

 

Women’s sleeping bags: Not only are women more sensitive to the cold than men, but they also sleep in different positions in some cases. Women’s sleeping bags are shorter in length, narrower at the shoulders and wider at the hips. They will also have more insulation.

 

Sleeping bag length: You’ll want a sleeping bag that’s as close to your height as possible to minimize weight and maximize insulation while still allowing you to lie comfortably in it.

 

Electronics bag: great idea! You can place your cell phone, camera or other items inside the sleeping bag to sleep with you to keep the battery charged during the cold nights.

 

Hood Cord: You will want the hood of your mummy sleeping bag to be as closed as possible. On very cold nights, you might just put your nose out to breathe.

 

Zipper pullers: A zipper that can be opened from the inside as well as from the outside is a good idea.

 

Water-Repellent: A long-lasting water-repellent coating helps prevent rain and condensation from penetrating your sleeping bag. You will need this performance.

 

Leg and foot openings: These are stupid and unnecessary, avoid them.

 

Sleeping bag tips

 

Before you get in, fill a water bottle with hot water and throw it into your sleeping bag. This will keep you warm and cozy when you get in.

 

A sleeping bag does not generate heat, it only retains your body heat. Warm up on a cold night to get your blood circulating before diving in.

 

Temporarily repair tears or holes with tape to control damage before they grow. After returning home, they can be completely repaired by patching or stitching.

 

Keep your sleeping bag away from sources of fire; sparks can easily create holes and the heat can melt them.

The Leave No Trace Seven Principles
By in

The Leave No Trace Seven Principles

The Leave No Trace Seven Principles

Need a guide to properly enjoy the great outdoors while minimizing human impact? This list is for you!

 

LNT Posts-01

1.Plan Ahead and Prepare

Get to know the area you’re visiting. Do some background research on the place, people, ways for transport, and the local weather. Prepare well for your trip: pack a first-aid kit, appropriate clothing, and just the right amount of food. Familiarize yourself with the proper technical know-how needed for whatever adventure you’re about to embark on.

LNT Posts-02

2.Travel and  Camp on Durable Ground

Do not walk and travel on places that have not been made for human transit. Trampling on vegetation may not seem like a big deal, but it can greatly alter an area. Even if it means taking the longer route to get to your destination, do so to minimize damage. Walk on sturdy ground which doesn’t erode and crumble when stepped on. When setting up camp, look for relatively barren ground to avoid damaging vegetation.

LNT Posts-03

3.Dispose of  Waste Properly

“Pack it in, pack it out”. Whatever you bring to a place, make sure to bring all of it back home with you. Do not leave any garbage while outdoors: wet wipes, leftover food, tin cans, plastic containers, mineral water bottles, utensils, cigarette buds or packs, alcohol bottles and so on. Garbage does not belong in forests, beaches, or summits. Garbage should be disposed of in cities. None of us want to go through a long commute to visit a place festering with trash.

Not your trash you see on the ground? Doesn’t matter. Pick it up. It will go a long way!

LNT Posts-04

4.Leave What You Find

Imagine a visitor coming to your house and taking a nice piece of your furniture before leaving. As seemingly innocuous as taking home a bit of sand, or a pretty shell, or flowers – resist the temptation and leave it there for others to appreciate. Refrain from defacing or vandalizing anything outdoors as it is disrespectful to the environment, to the locals, and to other visitors. When inside caves, refrain from touching walls, stalagmites, and stalactites as it damages them. Always remember to keep the environment as pristine as possible.

LNT Posts-05

5.Minimize Campsite Impacts

In light of brush and forest fires, this rule goes without saying. Refrain from even creating a campfire, as it is a hazard to the environment you’re in. Aside from this, the aftermath of a campfire is unsightly as ash, burned logs, and rocks covered in soot will be left behind. If absolutely necessary, only ever set up a campfire on an existing fire pit to reduce damage to an area, keeping it as clean as possible.

LNT Posts-06

6.Respcet Wildlife

Refrain from playing, taunting, feeding or abusing local wildlife. You are merely a visitor in their area. With pollution, rise in temperatures and fast-encroaching development all over, our wildlife have enough problems to deal with. We visitors should help them survive rather than add to their problems.

LNT Posts-07 V2

7.Be Considerate of Other Visitors

How would you feel if the group before you completely littered the place leaving food remains, alcohol bottles, plastic bags, and bottles of butane? What if they picked the flowers you wanted to see, scared wildlife away, carved their names on stones or tree bark, set multiple campfires, and trampled on patches of greenery that effectively killed vegetation? It too, would kill the experience for you. Refrain from being that person and that group. Respect other visitors, and most importantly, respect the locals who live in the area. That is their home. Take good care of it.

From: WWF WWF-Philippines | The Leave No Trace Seven Principles

An article to let you know the mechanism and classification of flame retardants!
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An article to let you know the mechanism and classification of flame retardants!

The way to achieve flame retardant

Gas phase flame retardant mechanism: that is, to inhibit the free nature of the role of chain growth in the combustion reaction, and the flame retardant effect.

Condensed phase flame retardant mechanism: it is in the solid phase to prevent the thermal decomposition of the polymer and prevent the polymer from releasing the role of flammable gas.

Interruption of heat exchange mechanism: the heat generated by the polymer is taken away and not fed back to the polymer, so that the polymer will not continue to decompose.

Classification of flame retardants

According to the element type, it is divided into halogen, organophosphorus and halogen-phosphorus, nitrogen, silicon, aluminum-magnesium, molybdenum, etc. According to the flame retardant effect, there are expansion type flame retardants, carbon flame retardants, etc. According to the chemical structure, there are inorganic flame retardants, organic flame retardants, polymer flame retardants, etc. According to the relationship between flame retardants and flame retardant materials can be divided into additive flame retardants and reactive flame retardants, reactive flame retardants involved in the chemical reaction of polymers.

1、Halogen flame retardants

Halogen flame retardants are one of the largest production of organic flame retardants in the world. Halogen flame retardants are mainly used in the electronics and construction industries, and about 50 to 100 kinds of halogen-containing flame retardants cover most of the market demand.

The main reason why halogen flame retardants are valued by people is that halogen flame retardants have high flame retardant efficiency and moderate price, and their performance-to-price ratio is difficult to compare with other flame retardants, plus the variety of halogen flame retardants and a wide range of applications, so they are favored by people. However, halogen flame retardants in the thermal cracking or combustion to generate more smoke and corrosive gases and to be plagued by the problem of dioxins.

More than 80% of halogenated flame retardants are used in electronic/office equipment and construction industry, and the main application varieties are styrenics and their copolymers, thermoplastic engineering plastics and epoxy resins.

2. Phosphorus-containing flame retardants

Phosphorus-containing compounds can be used as flame retardants for thermoplastics, thermosets, fabrics, paper, coatings and adhesives. Such flame retardants include red phosphorus, water-soluble inorganic phosphates, insoluble ammonium polyphosphate, organic phosphate esters and phosphonates, phosphine oxide, hydrogen bomb hydrocarbon-based phosphate esters and brominated aromatic phosphate esters.

Although halogen flame retardants have high flame retardancy, but there are problems such as environmental pollution and toxicity, while phosphorus-based flame retardants are very effective flame retardants in addition to several types of polymers such as styrene and polyolefins, and the secondary pollution is small, so the flame retardants have received attention.

Ammonium phosphate class

Monoammonium phosphate (MAP) and diammonium phosphate (DAP) are still effective flame retardants for fibers and fabrics, nonwovens, paper, wood and many other cellulose. They can form phosphoric acid, which makes cellulose hydroxyl esterification, and the resulting cellulose decomposes into carbon, changing the course of thermal degradation, thus achieving the purpose of flame retardant. They are easily soluble in water, so their flame retardancy can not last. It is currently one of the main components of intumescent flame retardants.

Red phosphorus

Red phosphorus is an extremely effective flame retardant for oxygenated polymers such as PC, PET, PBT, PPE, and is used more often in Europe as a flame retardant for nylon parts. Because red phosphorus reacts with water in the atmosphere to form toxic phosphine, industrial products need to be stabilized and coated.

Trihydroxyphosphine (phosphine) esters

Trihydroxyphosphine (phosphine) ester is used as a diluent when unsaturated polyesters are highly filled (e.g. aluminum hydride, calcium carbonate). It is also used as a co-effector in halogenated polyesters and is less effective than antimony oxide, but has good processability. The less volatile trihydroxy phosphate esters are tributyl phosphate, trioctyl phosphate and phosphate ester of tributyl oxyethyl. Methyl dimethyl phosphate contains up to 25% phosphorus, is an extremely effective flame retardant. Its high volatility limits the application. Suitable for polyurethane rigid foam, highly filled thermosetting resins. Also used as a viscosity diluent in highly filled thermoset resins. Ethyl diethyl phosphate is more stable under the condition that urethane has blowing agent and amine catalyst.

Aryl phosphate esters

Aryl phosphate esters are mainly used in industry as non-combustible plasticizers for PVC and cellulose acetate and as non-halogen flame retardants for engineering plastics such as PPE, PC/ABS alloys.

Alkylated phosphate triphenyl esters

Aryl phosphate esters are liquid, the main alkylation products are made from synthetic isopropyl propanol or isobutylphenol. The method of preparation is to make phenol alkylation, and then react with phosphoryl chloride. Therefore, alkylated triaryl phosphate esters are a mixture. Among them, tributyl phenyl phosphate has better antioxidant properties, but less plasticity. Methyltriphenyl phosphate is the most effective flame retardant for PVC. However, it is also the most volatile and is used in Europe. Alkyl diaryl phosphonate has better plasticity and is used in PVC with better low temperature, it also has less smoke generation than triaryl phosphonate.

2-Ethylhexyl diphenyl phosphate

2-Ethylhexyl diphenyl phosphate has been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for use in food packaging. Isodecyl diphenyl phosphate is used in PVC cables, especially high-voltage cables, because it has a long hydrocarbon group that is not volatile.

Dimer aryl phosphates are less volatile and have linking groups of resorcinol, hydroquinone or bisphenol. They are used in thermoplastics (e.g. PPE, PC/ABS).

Modified polyphenylene ethers (PPE)

Modified polyphenylene ether (PPE) is a blend of PPE and high-impact polystyrene (PS-HI). Depending on the grade, it generally contains 55% to 65% PS-HI. Although phosphate ester does not enable PS-HI to achieve UL 94 flame-retardant rating, it is used in industry to flame retard PPE resin and achieve UL 95 V-0 rating. The phosphoric acid generated by the phosphate ester makes PPE carbonized for flame retardant purposes. The flame retardants used in industry are liquid alkylated triaryl phosphonates or dienes.

Triaryl phosphonates

Triaryl phosphonates volatilize when processed, causing stress fractures. The use of less volatile diphosphonates reduces stress fractures. Bisphenol A can be a linking group for diphosphonoquinone.

Halogen-containing phosphate esters

Halogenated alkyl phosphate esters are mainly used in polyurethane harder foam products. However, the thermal stability is poor. But because of the halogen-containing phosphate ester due to the toxicity of the base, has been banned in most countries such as the EU, China is also not recommended.

Phosphorus oxides

Phosphorus oxides with hydrolysis stable P-C bond, they contain more P than aryl phosphate esters, and are therefore more effective flame retardants. Their diols and triols are active flame retardants for polyurethane and epoxy resins.

Phosphorus compounds as flame retardants can inhibit free radical reactions in the condensed phase, and they themselves can also generate glassy substances until the barrier effect of heat and mass transfer. Organophosphorus flame retardants are considered to be one of the most promising species to replace halogenated flame retardants.

3、Inorganic hydroxide

Inorganic hydroxide is a very important flame retardant. Inorganic hydroxides are easy to handle, relatively non-toxic, do not produce toxic, corrosive gases, and smoke suppression, and more importantly, cheaper than halogen and phosphorus flame retardant systems. This type of flame retardant using the appropriate formulation can make the material meet a variety of test requirements. Inorganic aluminum hydroxide is the most sold flame retardant of inorganic hydroxide and is mainly used for synthetic rubber, thermosetting resins and thermoplastics with processing temperature below 200℃. The application of inorganic hydroxide flame retardants has continued to grow considering the environmental concerns of halogen-containing and phosphorus-containing flame retardants.

Aluminum hydroxide (ATH)

Aluminum hydroxide is one of the most widely used flame retardants. It is a non-toxic, white to light white powder with a relative density, Mohs hardness of. When the temperature is heated above 320°C, aluminum hydroxide loses its weight due to water loss.

For polymers processed at temperatures lower than the decomposition temperature of aluminum hydroxide (190~230℃), aluminum hydroxide is an excellent flame retardant material, and it is worth noting that the size of particle diameter has an effect on thermal stability.

Aluminum hydroxide is used as a flame retardant material in elastomers, thermosetting resins and thermoplastics, etc. It is also used in large quantities in the production of styrene-butadiene latex for flame retardant carpets, in the production of flame retardant insulated rubber cables, insulation foam, conveyor belts and hoses, etc. It can be used in all unsaturated resins, such as laminated roofs and walls, lavatory appliances, decorative wall panels, various covers, automobile shields, truck parts, etc., and electronic components including insulators and circuit boards. It also includes building construction tools, etc.

Aluminum hydroxide is used in epoxy and phenolic resins, including adhesives, laminated parts, circuit boards, imitation marble and ceramic appliances, etc.

Aluminum hydroxide is used in cross-linked acrylic resins for flame retardant and decorative purposes, such as roofs, sinks, lavatory panels, decorative materials and wall panels.

In thermoplastics, aluminum hydroxide is receiving increasing attention due to the environmental impact of halides, especially in Europe. The scope of its application is also increasing. In soft and hard PVC, ethylene propylene rubber, EPDM, EVAC, ethylene – ethyl acrylate copolymer, PE-LD, PE-HD, blends of PE and PP, plastics made using metallocene catalyst technology, etc. In addition, it is commonly used in wires and cables, conduits, pipes, adhesives, laminates for construction, and insulation foam.

Aluminum hydroxide can provide formulations with low raw smoke. This formulation is less toxic and less corrosive in terms of smoke generation than formulations containing a mixture of halides and antimony oxide. Depending on the polymer and the requirements, the mass fraction of aluminum hydroxide ranges from 5% to 75%, and in non-halogenated systems, it is generally 35% to 65%. In this application range sometimes increases the viscosity of the mixture and has a negative impact on the physical properties of the resin. The use of suitable additives and reasonable mixing techniques can disperse the aluminum hydroxide sufficiently and greatly reduce the above effects. Aluminum hydroxide with proper surface treatment can also reduce the effects due to high filling rate, which may increase the cost of the material.

Magnesium hydroxide

Magnesium hydroxide is the second most sold inorganic hydroxide flame retardant. It is a white to light white crystalline powder with relative density, Mohs hardness. Weight loss (mass fraction) due to loss of water when heated to above 450°C.

When magnesium hydroxide as a flame retardant, its purity requirements are quite high, at least the magnesium hydroxide contained, many grades higher than. Most flame retardant grades are white powders with particle diameters ranging from μm. The surface area is 7~15 sqm/g. Most of the magnesium hydroxide used as flame retardant is surface treated to improve its dispersion and distribution in the polymer. Magnesium hydroxide is used at the same high addition level as aluminum hydroxide, typically 50% to 70%. The high purity requirements and surface treatment requirements make magnesium hydroxide more expensive than precipitated grade aluminum hydroxide.

Magnesium hydroxide is used for processing thermoplastics and thermosetting resins with temperature from 200~225℃. It is mainly used for EVAC, PP and blends, ABS and its blends, fluoropolymers, PPE and blends, polyimide, etc. Can not be used for thermoplastic polyester. Magnesium hydroxide is used together with aluminum hydroxide to meet different usage requirements. Wires and cables, racks, construction of multi-layered panels, pipes, electrical appliances and other parts will also use magnesium hydroxide.

4、Silicon compound

Silicon compound is a new flame retardant. It can be completely independent of halogen and phosphorus compounds and play a flame retardant role. Recent articles and patents on silicon flame retardants have become the new hot spot. All kinds of composition of silicon is used as a flame retardant research. Silicon-containing compounds, whether as additives to polymers or in blends with polymers, have significant flame retardant properties.

The practical silicon containing compounds flame retardant techniques are:

1) The introduction of silicon atoms or silicon groups in polymers through grafting reactions;
2) Addition of silicone resin powder;
3) Addition of high molecular weight silicone oil with organometallic compounds and silica;
4) silicone rubber with metal compounds;
5) polymer/clay nanocomposites;
6) Addition of primary silicate;
7) silica gel in combination with potassium carbonate;
8) low melting point glass containing silicon.

Silicon containing flame retardant and its flame retardant technology is now widely studied, the polymer containing silicon flame retardant is large how much smoke non-toxic, low calorific value of combustion, slow flame propagation, and thus is valued, its development potential and application prospects are very huge and broad.

 
Cuben-Dyneema
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Cuben-Dyneema

Dyneema® fiber, also known as Dyneema/Dalima fiber, is technically classified as ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber (UHMWPE), which is the highest-strength material that humans can currently synthesize. Dyneema® fiber is one-thousandth of an inch thick and has a remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, which also makes it the strongest fiber in the world today.

   Dyneema® fibers have ultra-long molecular chains, which allow for more efficient load transfer to the polymer backbone. This physical property allows Dyneema® fiber to have higher tensile strength at the same mass and lighter mass at the same tensile strength compared with other fibers.

   Under the same mass, the tensile force of Dyneema® fiber is 15 times that of steel.

   Under the same quality, the tensile force is 40% higher than that of aramid fiber.

   It can float on the water surface and can effectively resist the erosion of moisture, ultraviolet light and chemical reagents.

   Dyneema® fiber itself is a black technology! Dyneema® fiber products are used in life protection (body armor/cut-resistant gloves), heavy lifting (cables/slings), armor protection, outdoor equipment and other fields.

Dyneema® fabric classification

 

   Dyneema® fabrics (Dyneema® Fabrics) refer to fabrics made of Dyneema® fibers through compounding and blending. There are five main types of Dyneema® fabrics currently on the market:

   Among them, Dyneema® carbon fiber blended fabrics, Dyneema® blended denim fabrics, Dyneema® knitted blended fabrics and Dyneema® woven blended fabrics are all new fabrics made by blending Dyneema® fibers with other fibers through different weaving methods. Dyneema® ® fibers to improve the performance of fabrics. Can be collectively referred to as Dyneema® blended fabrics.

   The Dyneema® Composite Fabrics (Dyneema® Composite Fabrics, referred to as: DCF) is a film made of the middle layer of Dyneema® fiber and the upper and lower polyester thin laminations. The middle layer is a solid layer of Dyneema® fiber and can be laminated with other films to take its strength and durability to new heights. Improved tear, puncture and abrasion performance while reducing weight and bulk. Dyneema® composite fabric is currently the strongest performance fabric among Dyneema® fabrics.

 

Dyneema® composite fabric

 
Predecessor – crude benzene fiber

    The predecessor of Dyneema® composite fabric is Cuben Fiber. Although the name is “fiber”, crude benzene fiber is actually a non-woven composite film made of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber (UHMWPE) and polyester and other films laminated.

   Originally developed by Cubic Tech Corporation (Cubic Tech Corporation) to make sails for racing sailboats. In 2009, Cubic Technology Company named the performance-optimized crude benzene fiber as CTF3. In 2015, Cubic Technology Company was acquired by DSM subsidiary Dyneema, and crude benzene fiber (CTF3) was also renamed as Dyneema® composite fabric (abbreviation: DCF) .

Fabric performance

     Dyneema® Composite Fabrics (hereinafter referred to as DCF) come in different thicknesses and weights and can be used to manufacture different types of products. The heavier DCF has a higher density of Dyneema fibers which increases its strength. Lamination of DCF hybrid variants with polyester film makes it more wear resistant. In order to make equipment products have better performance, manufacturers will laminate DCF and other fabric films together. DCF and films with different properties are laminated, and the properties of the final fabric will also be different.

   Regardless of its ugly appearance, DCF will give full play to the performance of Dyneema® fiber. In addition to UV resistance, it also has three major properties.

No.1

high tensile strength

   As mentioned above, the tensile force of Dyneema® fiber in the middle layer of DCF is 15 times that of steel of the same quality, and DCF can reach 10 times that of steel of the same quality. The 2MM diameter Dalima line can easily lift up to 300kg. That’s an amazing indicator!

 

No.2

ultra light

   For equipment made of DCF, using DCF and ordinary fabrics with the same tensile strength, DCF will be 25-50% lighter in weight. Assuming that a piece of ordinary fabric equipment with the same tensile strength costs 1kg, then the weight of the equipment made of DCF will only be 250g~500g, which can easily reduce the outdoor load.

 

No.3

Highly water repellent

   Rain, ice and snow in the outdoors are a deadly threat or burden to the human body. Therefore, the water repellency of the equipment is very critical. The highly water-repellent performance can reduce the weight burden caused by the equipment absorbing water, and at the same time better protect the safety of the human body.

    After reading it, do you think DCF is a proper black technology fabric!

    At present, there is no domestic manufacturer that can stably mass-produce this kind of fabric. Making it into equipment has very high requirements for production technology and equipment. The sewing process will directly affect the performance of the fabric, and it is also very difficult to control the production capacity and yield. This is one of the reasons why such excellent fabric products have not been widely used in outdoor clothing and equipment except for being expensive.